Useful exercises for student perfumers is to take two Carles1Īnd Calkin and Jellinek4 suggest that one of the most Generally, this choice is based on trialand-error experiments and subjective judgements. Pure solution, but taking into account its behaviour in a Is the right choice of each fragrant compound, not in a The suggested proportionsįor each type of fragrant notes are: top, 15–25% middle,Īlthough important studies have been made in order toĬlassify each material as belonging to one of the types ofįragrant notes, one of the difficulties that a perfumer feels The structure of a perfume as a triangle divided horizontally into three parts, representing top, middle and base Which can last more than 8 hours and are used as Hours and (c) base notes, the less volatile compounds, Which give the character to a perfume and can last a few Volatile compounds, which can be detected in a perfumeĪfter application only a few minutes (b) middle notes, Three groups of fragrant notes:1–3 (a) top notes, the more Of view-the volatility-the materials are classified in Most important properties from the perfumer’s point Perfumes are complex mixtures of substances having Perfume flavour fragrance ternary diagram odour value threshold headspace The effect of ethanol content in the ternary system was also studied. As an example, this methodology was applied to the system: benzaldehyde–2phenylethanol–eugenol in ethanol. A theoretical prediction of the PTD was made, based on perfumery binary lines (PBLs)Īnd perfumery ternary points (PTPs). The odour value in the headspace for all possible combinations of a perfume liquid mixture with three fragrantĬomponents and one solvent. These diagrams allow a fast evaluation of Structure and engineering ternary diagrams, was developed in this work. Received 21 January 2004 Revised 16 December 2004 Accepted 18 January 2005ĪBSTRACT: A new concept of perfumery ternary diagrams (PTDs), based on an analogy between perfume pyramid
LSRE | Laboratory of Separation and Reaction Engineering, Departamento de Engenharia Química, Faculdade de Engenharia da Perfumery ternary diagrams (PTD): a new conceptĪpplied to the optimization of perfume compositions Published online 15 June 2005 in Wiley InterScience (DOI: 10.1002/ffj.1590 PERFUMERY TERNARY DIAGRAMS FOR PERFUME COMPOSITIONS OPTIMIZATION 465